Vicki Taylor on ‘taylor’ NZFW and the New Zealand Fashion Industry
taylor has been a fixture on the NZ fashion scene for a while now, how did you get it all started?
taylor was established in 1999. I had studied Fashion Design in Melbourne, Australia and after spending several years in Australia, it was time to head back to Auckland and start getting serious about my career.
I spent the next 5 years working for a large NZ manufacturing company where I headed their design team and grew their company from one label to 5 women’s fashion labels targeting different market sectors.
In late 1998 it was time to try something different and when I stumbled across the lease on a building in Jervois Road, Ponsonby, I knew I just had to try my own label.
Taylor opened and we grew our label from there. Today I can say I not only still have that same boutique at the same location, I also have customers shopping with me today who purchased their first taylor piece on my opening day.
You’re garments are 100% NZ made, how important to you think it is to support local design and manufacturing in this economic climate?
In this economic climate we all wish we could produce our NZ made clothing cheaper but I do not agree that the tempting cheaper offshore labour prices is the answer for the long term good of New Zealand design.
If the more established designers do not keep their slightly bigger production runs in New Zealand the manufacturing side of our industry will disappear. It has already shrunk dramatically in the last 10 years.
This lack of local manufacture knowledge and skill base will stop young NZ designers from being able to start small businesses, where they hone their design skills on our local market with unique pieces and small production runs. In turn this will result in our young designers not being able to to stay local but forcing them to be based offshore as well.
So please support New Zealand Manufacture! In some cases it is more expensive but when you think many designer garments take 2-4 hours just to sew together… let alone the 7 or 8 different pairs of hands (the cutter, the sewer, the button hole person, the presser, the pattern maker, the grader, the quality controller) that contribute to make just one garment… you are keeping New Zealanders in business and also ensuring our young New Zealand designers have a future as well.
How do you feel about your first solo NZFW show? Nervous, excited, proud – all of the above?
Yes to all of the above. We have been really busy! Now the range is almost ready the excitement and nervousness sets in. I really hope I can inspire people and let them enjoy a little bit of the fabulous atmosphere that makes up New Zealand Fashion Week.
What was on your mood board for this fall/winter collection? (inspirations)
My mood board… This range is strong and refined, while keeping a dark, layered collection of textures and interesting fabrications. I love the winter season as it allows a more dramatic and dressed up silhouette to come to life.
What were your highs and lows from the previous year as part of the Merino show? – did this experience help you make the decision to ride solo this year?
Yes it really did as last year you could say I dipped my toe into the water of what is fashion week with a concise 10 garment collection in a group show. I really did enjoy my NZFW experience last year.
This year NZFW did not financially make sense especially as I don’t wholesale my label but something inside me just wanted to see if I could do a whole show. It wasn’t just me making the decision I have a small team of two other fabulous taylor girls in the workroom so after much deliberation we decided to challenge ourselves. I possibly wouldn’t have had the confidence if I hadn’t had their support.
What are your must have essentials to get you through NZFW?
A great coffee to start the day and then San Pellegrino sparking mineral water will keep you going all day!
There has been a lot of press about ‘rebel’ designers bowing out of NZFW, What do you think NZFW needs to do to stay relevant in the future?
Fashion is an industry that thrives on change so I think it’s importan to celebrate the change as newness always brings a freshness. Don’t ever doubt the resilience of New Zealand fashion and our local designers.
Photo Credit: Four Eyes
We were at taylor’s first NZFW solo show last week and we thought it was was brilliant!! Dark and light, expert layering and brilliant injections of colour (that INSANE sheer orange dress was my absolute favorite piece). There was no doubt that taylor was one of the most high fashion shows of the week.
Lucy Korn
